Fridge Not Cooling But Freezer Works UK Fixes
It’s a frustrating moment: you open the fridge expecting a rush of cold air, only to be met with lukewarm temperatures. To make things more confusing, you check the freezer and find it's still frozen solid. What gives?
The good news is that this specific problem—a warm fridge but a working freezer—usually points to an airflow issue, not a total system meltdown. More often than not, it’s a fixable problem caused by a blockage or a single faulty part.
Understanding Why Your Fridge Is Warm
It seems odd that one half of your appliance works while the other has packed in, but it makes sense once you understand how they share cold air. Your fridge doesn’t generate its own cold; it borrows it from the freezer. A single cooling system, the evaporator, lives in the freezer. A fan then blows the chilled air from the freezer down into the fridge section through a vent.
When the fridge stops cooling, it’s almost always because this air transfer has been interrupted. The problem isn’t a lack of cold air, but a failure to deliver it where it's needed.
Quick Diagnostic Chart For A Warm Fridge
| Potential Cause | Key Symptom | Repair Difficulty |
|---|---|---|
| Blocked Air Vents | Fridge feels slightly cool at the back but warm at the front. | Easy |
| Faulty Evaporator Fan | You can't hear the fan running when the compressor is on. | Moderate |
| Defrost System Failure | Heavy frost or ice buildup on the back wall of the freezer. | Difficult |
| Stuck Air Damper | No cold air is felt coming from the vent, even when the fan is running. | Moderate to Difficult |
The Most Common Culprits
Think of it like a blocked road. Several components can cause this breakdown in airflow between your freezer and fridge. Here are the usual suspects:
- A Faulty Evaporator Fan: This fan is responsible for pushing cold air around. If its motor fails or something blocks the blades, the cold air stays trapped in the freezer.
- Blocked Air Vents: If you’ve pushed a large item right up against the vent that connects the two compartments, air can’t get through.
- A Defrost System Failure: Your fridge has an automatic defrost system to melt ice off the evaporator coils. If this system fails, the coils can get encased in ice, choking off airflow.
- A Stuck Air Damper: The damper is a small flap that controls how much cold air the fridge gets. If it gets stuck shut, it starves the fridge of cool air.
A warm fridge isn't just an inconvenience; it can lead to spoiled food and potential health risks. Figuring out the cause quickly not only saves your weekly shop but also prevents a minor fault from becoming an expensive problem.
Essential Tools and Safety Checks
Before you start pulling panels off to figure out why your fridge is not cooling but the freezer works, a bit of prep will make a big difference.
The first, non-negotiable step is to kill the power. Unplug the appliance from the mains to remove the risk of electric shock. You'll need to pull the fridge away from the wall to get to the plug. Also, a problem with the defrost system means melting ice. Lay some old towels inside the freezer and on the floor to soak up water.
Gathering Your Diagnostic Toolkit
You don't need a full workshop, but a few essentials are necessary:
- A Basic Screwdriver Set: You'll need Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers to remove interior panels.
- Socket or Nut Driver Set: Some models use hex-head screws.
- Protective Gloves: These help you grip small parts and protect your hands from sharp edges.
- A Multimeter: This is your secret weapon for electrical diagnosis. A multimeter lets you test for continuity in parts like the evaporator fan motor or defrost thermostat.
Safety First: Never test electrical parts with a multimeter while the fridge is plugged in. Always perform continuity tests on individual components after they have been safely disconnected.
With your tools ready and the power off, you're set to find out what's really going on with your fridge.
Finding The Fault: A Practical Walkthrough
With your tools laid out and the power off, it’s time to play detective. Pinpointing why your fridge is not cooling but the freezer works is a process of elimination. We’ll start with the most common culprits first.
Start With The Air Vents
First, open both doors and look at the air vents—the small grilles that let cold air from the freezer into the fridge. Look for anything blocking them.
- Food Packaging: A large container pushed against a vent can stop airflow.
- Ice Buildup: Ice can form over the vent, creating a seal.
- General Clutter: An overstuffed fridge can stop air from circulating properly.
If you spot an obstruction, move it. Often, this simple fix is all that’s needed.
Listen For The Evaporator Fan
Next, listen for the evaporator fan, which is inside the freezer behind a rear panel. You'll need to plug the appliance back in for a moment for this check.
Listen carefully. When the compressor kicks in—the low hum from the back—you should also hear the faint whirring of the evaporator fan. If the compressor is running but the fan is silent, you've probably found your problem.
Pro Tip: Most fridges have a door switch that cuts the fan off when you open the door. You might need to press this button to trick the appliance into thinking the door is shut, letting the fan run.
If there’s no sound from the fan, the motor may have failed or it might be jammed with ice. Unplug the fridge again as soon as you’ve finished this test.
Inspect The Evaporator Coils For Frost
If the vents are clear and the fan seems fine, the defrost system is your next suspect. This involves inspecting the evaporator coils behind the back panel inside your freezer.
Unscrew the panel. Behind it, you'll find metal fins – the evaporator coils. A light, even coating of frost is normal. What you don't want to see is the coils completely encased in thick ice. This is a dead giveaway that the automatic defrost system has failed. This wall of ice stops air from flowing into the fridge, which is why your fridge is not cooling but the freezer works.
Figuring out which defrost component has failed—the heater, thermostat, or timer—will require testing with a multimeter. You’ll need the specific part numbers for your model. Our guide on how to locate model and serial numbers on your home's appliances can help.
When You Should Call A Professional
Sometimes, a DIY effort meets its match. Certain symptoms are a clear sign it’s time to call in a professional. Ignoring these can turn a simple repair into a complete write-off.
Major Red Flags That Need An Expert
If you spot any of the following signs, it’s best to call an expert.
- Compressor Problems: If the compressor is silent, making a loud buzzing or clicking noise, or feels extremely hot, that’s a sign of serious trouble.
- Evidence of a Refrigerant Leak: Look for an oily, black residue around the compressor. Refrigerant must be handled by a certified technician.
A DIY repair can be rewarding, but it's vital to know your limits. Issues with the compressor or sealed refrigerant system are not DIY jobs. They involve high pressures and controlled substances that require professional equipment and expertise.
When you're faced with serious symptoms, don't risk it. Booking a professional ensures the job is done safely and correctly. For a reliable solution, learn more about our expert fridge freezer repair services and let a qualified engineer take care of it.
Your Top Fridge Cooling Questions Answered
How Long Will It Take for My Fridge to Get Cold Again?
After a fix, it needs time. Generally, allow 4-6 hours for the fridge to reach a safe temperature. For the whole system to stabilise, wait a full 24 hours before adjusting the temperature settings.
Can a Jam-Packed Freezer Stop the Fridge From Cooling?
Yes, absolutely. An overstuffed freezer can block the vents that are crucial for cooling the rest of the appliance. Cold air needs room to circulate properly before it can be sent down to the fridge.
- Blocked Vents: Shoving items against the vents at the back of the freezer acts like a roadblock.
- Poor Circulation: A full freezer stops air from moving freely across the evaporator coils, hampering the cooling process.
Good airflow is everything for your fridge-freezer.
Should I Repair or Just Replace My Fridge?
This boils down to the age of your appliance and the cost of repair. A handy guide is the 50% rule. If your fridge is more than halfway through its typical lifespan (about 10-15 years) and the repair is more than 50% of a new model's cost, it’s probably time to replace it. For a newer appliance with a simple fault, a repair is almost always the smarter financial move.
If you’ve tried these fixes and are still stuck, or if you'd rather a professional take a look, Go Assist is here to help. Our network of vetted, brand-certified engineers can provide a reliable, same-day or next-day repair. Book your hassle-free repair online and let us handle the rest.
